Rising up above the Centro Histórico of Quito is El Panecillo, a 3,000-meter (9,842-feet) hill that is crowned by a statue of the Virgen de El Panecillo. Known to the Incas as Yavirac, the hill has sweeping views that encompass much of the city and the snow-covered volcanoes beyond.

My first day in Quito, I took a taxi up to El Panecillo, going up the winding circuitous route to the top of the hill, with traffic so chaotic that I was glad to not be driving. The Virgen de El Panecillo looked out across the city, her angelic wings outstretched as if she were about to take flight. I took in the view, trying to get an understanding of the complex geography of Quito, a city that fills a long narrow valley, surrounded by mountains and volcanoes.